Week 93 - Sengiggi, Komodo, Rinca, Kanawa Island, Ruteng (Indonesia)

We were picked up from our hotel in Sengiggi at 8:30am on the dot and squeezed into a mini bus along with 7 other people for the short drive north to Bangsal. We were dropped at a cafe where, along with the 38 other people who had booked on for the tour to Komodo, including Grant who we first met in Java, we had a couple of hours to kill before our boat was ready to leave. Eventually and only an hour or so late, we were randomly split in to two groups and walked to the dock to board our boats. As there were so many people, there were two boats and of course we ended up on the smallest, tattiest of the two. Although at first we were a little jealous, we soon came to love our floating shed and it became our home for the next 3 nights.

As soon as we boarded, Catherine, an English girl we’d met in the cafe, suggested we jump up to the covered top deck to choose mattresses before everyone else climbed onboard, a great call that resulted in us getting the end row where we could get some fresh air. The 19 mattresses were practically overlapping they were so close. We were a bit disappointed there wasn’t a larger area to sit on out in the sun but soon made the most of it and squished into the small area at the front, and Bintang in hand, our boat left port.

Our sleeping quarters on the boat.

We had some time to get to know some of the other people on our boat before we pulled up at our first stop at the northern point of Lombok. Hot and sticky from sitting on deck in the sun, we were all happy to have a chance to jump in the water and swim ashore to one of the more remote beaches on the coast. Although not the most beautiful, it felt pretty isolated. Before long, it was time to climb back aboard to continue our journey towards Sumbawa, the next island in the chain stretching from Sumatra to Timor.

Enjoying the sun and the view from the front of the boat with Catherine, Grant, Dan, Karen and Rhys.

We had lunch and dinner on the boat, both meals were vegetarian and involved an unprecedented amount of cabbage. As the evening drew in we pulled out the speaker and had music and beers on the front of the boat before deciding it was time for bed. As the crew navigate by the stars, while the boat is moving we couldn’t have the lights on and sitting in the dark while the sea started to get choppy wasn’t the most fun. Once we’d got to bed, all snuggled up on our sandwiched in mattresses, the sea started to get progressively worse, and worse, and worse. We were on the second deck but spray was coming in the side windows splashing our faces and feet and at one point all I could see out of the window were the waves uncomfortably close to my face. I spent most of the night lying there worrying about how we’d manage to climb out of the boat if it was to capsize (on our deck there were only little windows and a hatch leading to the lower deck).

The next day we all woke feeling pretty tired, no one had managed to sleep more than a couple of hours. Nevertheless, we emerged from our beds ready for breakfast. The sea had calmed and the sun made everything seem alright again. Our first stop of the day was at Moyo Island where we swam to shore before a short hike that took us through the forest and across a couple of shallow streams to a waterfall. After climbing the fall (another, never in the Western world moment) we arrived at a deep hole about 2m diameter carved by a tumbling river where, if the desire so took you, you could climb a tree and jump from about 5-8m. Although the three of us skipped the opportunity we watched as others took part before clambering back down to the base of the falls and back to the beach. After lunch we had another stop. This time at Satonda Island. We jumped off the boat to enjoy the snorkeling before swimming to the beach and walking the short distance to the salt lake that filled the hollow interior of the island. 

Me and Karen enjoying the waterfall at Pulau Moyo.

Back on the boat and a few Bintangs later the waves starting picking up again. As the night drew in, sitting on deck trying not to get thrown across the floor became less and less attractive and me and Rhys decided to lie down on the top deck where the lower centre of gravity stopped the sea sickness from getting too hard a grip on you. Karen tried to stay up and managed to stick it out for a bit longer before deciding sitting in the dark, being thrown about really wasn’t fun and there was nothing for it but to have an early night. 

I don’t know if I was just extremely tired after the previous night (Rhys and Karen had napped for a couple of hours that afternoon), but I slept much better and didn’t feel like the sea had been anywhere near as violent as the first night. Rhys and Karen on the other hand said they felt like they’d been through a blender, both had sore muscles from being thrown about and tensing when it slammed into the waves. I think I just managed to wedge myself in and slept through the worst if it. I woke around 3:30am and spent a while admiring the blanket of stars that filled the sky outside my window before falling back asleep until after the sun rose. 

The third day on board, we pulled up at the rear of Komodo Island and what better a way to start a day than by jumping overboard to snorkel a magnificent reef. We were all pretty tired from lack of sleep but the snorkeling was good enough to help us forget about it. Me and Rhys swam out to the drop off and followed it to the edge of the bay where we’d anchored. Happy with a few turtle spots we started swimming back towards the boat, then, in the depths, swimming level with me, I spotted the white wing tips of a manta ray. I shouted for Rhys before swimming along side and realising there were actually three rays. By the time we got back to the boat we were chuffed. 

Snorkeling around Komodo Island.

View from the boat, Komodo Island.

Our next scheduled spot was at Manta Point to try to find some more rays to snorkel with. The current was strong and one of our crew members jumped over to track down the rays before they’d let the rest of us jump in. We spotted a few swimming under and alongside the boat before finally being given the shout to climb in. It was all a bit hectic with our boat and the people from the other boat in the water together, all trying to swim against the current and stay with the rays. All up it was an incredible experience and something we’ve wanted to do for a while.

Lunch was served early as the crew predicted choppy weather ahead. Luckily, we missed the worst of it and circled Komdo Island to arrive at the visitor centre. We were paired with a ranger and split in to groups of 10 people. We had chosen to walk the longer route that would take us to the peak of three small hills. Before we even started walking we spotted a small three month old dragon hiding in the trees by the ranger station then when we reached the peak of the second hill our guide spotted an adult komodo dragon and shortly after we spotted another. They are incredible creatures, so prehistoric looking. The ones we saw were about 1.5 metres long and seemed pretty sedate. When dragons hunt they bite their prey infecting the wound with bacteria which takes about a week to kill the animal. The dragon will then eat the animal when it falls. A female dragon will guard their nests for the first three months and then will come back when the eggs hatch and eat their young, to escape, for the first 3 years of life, dragons live in trees until they become too heavy and move to the ground, hence the baby we saw in the trees at the ranger station.

Komodo dragon on Komodo Island.

By the time we’d left Komodo, we were all on a high, happy to have seen so much wildlife in one morning. The boat continued to Rinca island where we docked for the night. As we’d spent the last two nights travelling, spending a night in a sheltered bay was bliss. After getting mobbed by locals selling wooden komodo dragons and Karen making an impulse purchase, we opened the vodka, played charades (oh how crazy we are) and clambered aboard the other boat moored alongside to dance on their deck with a disco ball. When glowing plankton was discovered half the boat jumped overboard to swim. At 11:30pm we had arranged for a local boat to come and pick us up and take us to the nearest village to watch the France v. Germany worldcup game (and only Grant fell overboard in the process). Of the 21 of us onboard our boat, 17 went to shore. We ended up paying 25p for entrance to a little shed with a TV at the end. It was brilliant. By the time France had lost and we’d got on the boat back to our big boat we were shattered and ready for bed.

Our boat stayed moored until around 6am when we started traveling to Rinca Island. Having only had a few hours sleep most people stayed in bed until breakfast was served, toast pancakes, intriguing. Our first stop of the day was at Pink Beach, although not as bright as we’d expected there was a definite pink tinge with broken red coral mixing with the white sands. We chilled on the beach and made naked people sandcastles. Next stop was at the Rinca Island visitor centre, another komodo dragon national park. As they didn’t have enough rangers we ended up walking as a massive 40 person group which was a little ridiculous and gave us no chance of actually spotting dragons in the wild. We walked to a nice view point where the bays and islands scattered across the area were laid out in front of us and luckily saw four dragons prowling around head quarters (although Karen thought two were statues).

Hiking on Rinca Island.

Feeling a little hot and sticky we were glad when we pulled into our next snorkel stop so we could get back in the water. It was a spit of sand encircled by reef. We swam to shore and walked over to the other side of the spit so we could float back to the boat on the current. As soon as we stepped in the water we were attacked by small white, angry, territorial fish. I’ve never seen anything quite as funny as a 6’6’’ Grant flapping his arms and jumping about as 4’’ fish attacked his ankles. The snorkeling was great and we were blown away by a huge cuttlefish, camouflaged against the reef. Back in the boat it was time to pack our bags and head to port.

Final stop of the boat trip, snorkeling with vicious fish.

The boat dropped us in Labuanbajo at the western end of Flores. We said our goodbyes and walked into town. We had a reservation for bales on a small island and had to charter a private boat to take us there. We were left with an hour to use the wifi in a nice Italian restaurant while Karen got excited at having a menu and ordered a late second lunch.

Our boat to Kanawa Island took about an hour. As we approached we started getting excited, it looked amazing. The island is only small but only has one, rustic resort on it and no other buildings. We were dropped at the pier and walked to reception to check in. We were lead to our bales on the beach and immediately fell in love. This place was paradise. The bales were small structures, with thatched roofs and a double mattress on raised platforms. There were rolling bamboo blinds on all four sides and a mozzie net over the bed. Basic but perfect, practically on the beach with views of the islands across the bay. We were all so tired that by the time we’d checked in and eaten dinner we turned in for an early night.

Rhys arriving at Kanawa Island.

Me at the bar, Kanawa Island.

After breakfast the next day me and Rhys went for a quick explore before deciding to jump in for a snorkel. The house reef was amazing and teeming with life with beautiful healthy coral. Over the course of the day and the following day we saw an eel, a slipper lobster, lion fish and a crocodile fish as well as hundreds and hundreds of other brightly coloured fish. 

Lion fish, Kanawa Island.

We spent the first afternoon sitting on the beach soaking up the sun reading and watching the world go by. While we were lying there Karen noticed a fish swimming close to shore and we realised there were baby black tipped reef sharks swimming up and down the beach although they were too scared to let us get close to them. We were all having a brilliant day until Karen’s iphone fell into a bucket of water where it sat for an hour before she discovered it and tried but failed to resuscitate it in a bag of rice.

The next day Karen slept until midday while me and Rhys followed a track that took us up the highest point of the island with 360 degree views. We spent the rest of the day snorkeling and sitting on the beach until sunset when we took a couple of beers, along with Dan who we’d met on the boat from Lombok, and sat on a rock on top of the mountain. We didn’t stay up late and after dinner headed back to our bales. Lying in bed with the blinds up and the wind blowing in from the sea was so nice we didn’t want to stay up and waking up with the sun with views out to sea was incredible. Kanawa Island was one of our favourite places we’ve stayed since we’ve been away.

Me looking out from the highest point of Kanawa Island.

Sunset view of our bale, yes, that's our bed, Kanawa Island.

The free transfer back to Labuanbajo left at 8am the following day so we were up early to head back to Flores. We were very sad to leave Kanawa and could easily have stayed another couple of nights. When the boat reached port we spotted a guy with our names on a piece of paper. I’d arranged to meet a guy called Fery in town to be our driver for the next four days. Fery was ill and arranged for us to be met by Fanny (hee hee). We needed some time to check the internet and use the ATM so after packing our bags into the car we stopped in town to run our errands. 

Fanny spoke great english and as a driver and not a guide was very forthcoming with information, pointing out different trees and explaining about Flores and the way of life there. The itinerary for the first day was quite straight forward and we had a room booked in Ruteng a couple of hours away, at a catholic convent. We stopped for lunch at a small warung and made lots of photo stops to see rice terraces as well as a stop for Karen to crack open some macadamia nuts at the sside of the road - which she excelled at. The one stop we’d planned was in Canjar, known for it’s spider web rice terraces. We pulled over at a small house where we were led to a view point at the top of a hill. Karen was courted by a boy with a dead rat as we sat down to admire the pattern of the fields. Once we walked back to the bottom of the hill we stopped for a coffee and some goreng pisang (fried bananas) with the family whose land we were on. It was great to have Fanny with us as he could translate and it allowed us much more interaction with the locals.

Me and Karen at the spiderweb rice terraces, Canjar.

We continued to Ruteng where the convent had a 9pm curfew so we had an early dinner in town before turning in for the night.